Six prizes, and everything else.
The whole game is a race to turn over six cards. Everything else — the evolutions, the energy, the twelve trainer cards you didn't read — exists to make that race go faster. This is the beginner's guide: the rules in the order you actually need them, the four things new players get wrong, and an honest list of what nobody has written down yet.
Free, no account, no app. Written August 2026, against the Standard format as it stands after the April 2026 rotation.
This guide
15 CHAPTERSAbility — Plain English. Every rule here comes from the official rulebook or an official Pokémon page. Where a number is printed on the card rather than written in the rules, this guide says so instead of pretending otherwise.
Attack — The damage order. Chapter six is the one that decides games, and it is the one the rulebook explains least well. There's a calculator.
Not affiliated with, endorsed by, or connected to The Pokémon Company, Nintendo, Creatures Inc. or GAME FREAK.
The point
You are racing to take six cards.
At the start of the game you set aside the top six cards of your deck, face down, without looking. Those are your Prize cards. Every time you knock out one of your opponent's Pokémon, you take one of them into your hand. Take all six and you win.
That's it. That's the game. Two other things also win it for you, and both come up more often than beginners expect:
Keep the six-prize race in your head as you read the rest. Every decision in a turn is really the question does this get me closer to six, or stop them getting closer to six?
Not every knockout is worth one card
This changed recently and it's the single thing an older guide will get wrong.
The three-prize tier arrived with the Mega Evolution series in September 2025. If a guide you're reading only mentions one and two, it predates the current game.
Setup
Seven cards, one Active, up to five on the Bench.
Shuffle your sixty cards, draw seven, and look for a Basic Pokémon — the unevolved kind, the one that doesn't say Stage 1 or Stage 2 in the corner. You need at least one to start.
- No Basic in hand? Say so, shuffle your hand back in, and draw seven again. That's a mulligan, and it costs you nothing except tempo — your opponent draws an extra card for each one you take.
- Put one Basic face down as your Active Pokémon. That's your fighter. It's the only Pokémon that can attack, and the only one that can be attacked, unless a card says otherwise.
- Up to five more Basics go on the Bench, also face down. The Bench is where evolution happens, where energy gets stockpiled, and where your replacement sits when the Active gets knocked out.
- Set six Prize cards aside, face down, off the top of your deck. Don't look.
- Flip everything face up and start.
The Bench is not a waiting room
New players leave the Bench empty and lose to it. If your Active is knocked out and you have nothing to promote, you lose on the spot — no Pokémon in play is a loss condition, not an inconvenience. Fill the Bench early, even with Pokémon you don't intend to use.
Your turn
Draw, do things, attack. Attacking ends the turn.
A turn has three parts and the third one closes the door. Once you attack, your turn is over — so everything you wanted to do this turn has to happen before it.
- Draw one card. Not optional. If you can't, you lose.
- Do as much as you like, in any order. Play Pokémon to the Bench, evolve, attach energy, use Abilities, play Trainer cards, retreat.
- Attack — or pass. Either way, that's the end.
Then comes Pokémon Checkup, which belongs to neither player and is where poison and burns and sleep resolve. Chapter seven covers it, because getting the Checkup wrong is one of the most common beginner mistakes.
Four things you get exactly one of
Item cards are not on that list. You can play as many Items as you like in a turn, and a chain of cheap Items is how experienced players turn a bad hand into a good one. If you're stuck, look at your Items again before you pass.
The cards
Three kinds of card, and one of them has four sub-kinds.
Every card in a Pokémon deck is one of three things. The Trainer category is where the confusion lives, because its four sub-types follow completely different rules.
| Card | What it does | The rule that catches people |
|---|---|---|
| Pokémon | Your fighters. Basics come straight from hand to the Active spot or the Bench. Stage 1 and Stage 2 have to be evolved onto something. | Only the Active Pokémon attacks. |
| Trainer — Item | Small effects: search, draw, healing, disruption. Play it, do it, discard it. | No limit. Play as many as you can. |
| Trainer — Supporter | The big effects, usually drawing or searching several cards at once. | One per turn, and none at all on the first player's first turn. |
| Trainer — Pokémon Tool | Attaches to one of your Pokémon and stays there. | One Tool per Pokémon. It survives evolution and it travels to the Bench. |
| Trainer — Stadium | Sits in the middle and affects both players until it's replaced. | One per turn, and you can only replace a Stadium with one that has a different name. |
| Energy — Basic | The fuel. One attachment per turn, and it stays on the Pokémon until it's discarded or the Pokémon is knocked out. | You may run any number of copies in a deck — the only card in the game exempt from the four-copy limit. |
| Energy — Special | Fuel with a rider: extra effects, or counting as more than one energy. | Capped at four copies like everything else. |
Energy types, and why "matching" matters less than you'd think
An attack's cost is printed as a row of symbols. Coloured symbols demand that type; the plain one takes anything.
● Grass ● Fire ● Water ● Lightning ● Psychic ● Fighting ● Darkness Metal ● Dragon ● Colorless
A Colorless symbol in a cost means "any energy card." So an attack costing one Fire and two Colorless needs three energy total, only one of which has to be Fire. Reading costs this way is what stops you over-committing energy to the wrong Pokémon.
Evolving
Two restrictions that look like one restriction.
To evolve, you put the Stage 1 or Stage 2 card from your hand directly on top of the Pokémon it evolves from. It's not a new Pokémon — it's the same one, wearing a bigger card.
Carries over
What stays when you evolve
- All attached Energy
- Any Pokémon Tool
- All damage counters already on it
Evolving does not heal. A hurt Pokémon with 60 damage on it is still carrying 60 damage after it evolves — it just has more HP to spend it against.
Wiped clean
What evolving removes
- All Special Conditions — poison, burn, sleep, paralysis, confusion
- Any lingering effects of attacks on it
This is a real defensive tool. Evolving is one of only two ways to shrug off a Special Condition without a Trainer card. Retreating is the other.
The two timing rules people merge into one wrong rule
Rule one — the just-played rule. A Basic Pokémon you put into play this turn can't evolve this turn, and a Pokémon that just evolved can't evolve again the same turn. Play it, wait a turn, then evolve it.
Rule two — the first-turn rule. Neither player may evolve anything on their own first turn, full stop, even a Pokémon that somehow got into play earlier.
These are separate rules with separate reasons, and beginners smash them into a single half-remembered "you can't evolve straight away," which then produces arguments in chapter nine's territory. Learn them apart.
One more thing that surprises people: an evolved Pokémon can only use the attacks and Abilities printed on its own card. The Stage 1's attacks are gone the moment the Stage 2 lands on top.
Damage
The order decides games, and the rulebook barely explains it.
Your Active Pokémon uses one attack per turn. It needs the energy shown in the cost — exactly that or more — and then damage happens in a fixed six-step order. The order is the whole chapter, because applying the same modifiers in a different sequence produces a different number, and that number is often the game.
Damage is placed as counters worth 10 each. When a Pokémon's damage reaches its printed HP, it's knocked out: it and everything attached go to the discard pile, and the attacker takes their Prize cards.
The six steps, with numbers you can move
Set an attack up and watch the order do its work. The green box is the correct answer; the red box is what you get applying the reductions before Weakness, which is the mistake almost everyone makes at least once.
- 1Base damage printed on the attack—
- 2Effects on the attacking Pokémon—
- 3Apply Weakness—
- 4Apply Resistance—
- 5Effects on the defending Pokémon—
- 6Place the damage counters—
Where the actual numbers live
The rulebook tells you when to apply Weakness and Resistance but not how much, and that's not an oversight — the amount is printed on each defending card, next to the type symbol. On current cards that's ×2 for Weakness and −30 for Resistance. Older cards from the Diamond & Pearl era through Sword & Shield print different values, so if you're playing with a shoebox of inherited cards, read the card rather than trusting a chart.
Damage sequence and knockout rules: Pokémon Card Game Advanced Player's Rulebook and the official Attack Resolution Chart. Current Weakness and Resistance values are printed per card; see chapter fifteen.
Checkup
The bit between turns that belongs to nobody.
After a turn ends, both players resolve Pokémon Checkup together. This is where the Special Conditions do their work, and it happens in a fixed order:
Poisoned → Burned → Asleep → Paralyzed → other Checkup effects → check for knockouts.
Beginners resolve conditions on their own turn, in whatever order they notice them. That's wrong twice over, and with poison and burn stacked on the same Pokémon it changes whether something survives.
1 damage counter at every Checkup. No coin flip — it just keeps happening.
Clears when: it retreats or moves to the Bench, evolves, or a card removes it.2 damage counters at every Checkup, then flip a coin — heads and the burn goes out.
Clears when: heads on the flip, or it benches, evolves, or a card removes it.Can't attack. Can't retreat. Flip at Checkup; heads and it wakes up.
Clears when: heads on the flip, or it evolves, or a card removes it.Can't attack. Can't retreat. Costs you exactly one attack, not two.
Clears when: the start of that player's next turn, automatically.Flip when you attack. On tails the attack doesn't happen, 3 damage counters go on your own Pokémon, and your turn ends.
Clears when: it benches, evolves, or a card removes it.Paralysis lasts less time than it feels like
"Paralyzed for one turn" means it clears at the beginning of the affected player's next turn. So the practical cost is a single missed attack. Players routinely play as if it lasts two turns and hand away a tempo advantage they didn't lose.
Retreating
Swapping out, and what comes with you.
Once per turn you may retreat: discard energy from your Active Pokémon equal to its printed Retreat Cost, then swap it with a Pokémon on your Bench. Three things stop you:
- You don't have enough energy attached to pay the cost.
- Your Bench is empty — there's nothing to swap to.
- Your Active is Asleep or Paralyzed. Those two conditions specifically lock retreating.
What travels to the Bench with it: remaining energy, any Tool, and all its damage counters. What gets left behind: every Special Condition, and any effect from an attack.
Retreating is a healing move that doesn't heal
A poisoned, burned, confused Pokémon that retreats arrives on the Bench with all its damage but none of its problems. That makes retreat one of the two free answers to Special Conditions — the other being evolution — and it's why a low retreat cost is worth more than beginners think when they're picking which Pokémon to build around.
First turn
Going first is not simply better.
The two opening turns follow different rules, deliberately, to stop the player who wins the coin flip from also winning the game. Four separate facts, and they are scattered across the official material rather than stated in one place:
Player going first
Draws, builds, waits
- Draws a card as normal
- May attach energy, bench Pokémon, play Items and a Stadium
- May not attack
- May not play a Supporter
- May not evolve
Player going second
Everything except evolving
- Draws, attaches, benches
- May play Items, a Supporter and a Stadium
- May attack
- May not evolve on this turn either
So going second buys you a Supporter and an attack one turn earlier; going first buys you an extra energy attachment over the course of the game. Neither is strictly better, which is the point.
The no-evolution-on-turn-one rule is stated in the official Advanced Player's Rulebook. The no-attack and no-Supporter restrictions for the first player are documented on Bulbapedia rather than in the rulebook I could reach — see chapter fifteen.
Sixty cards
Building a deck, and where the rules stop.
A constructed deck is exactly sixty cards. Not fifty-nine, not sixty-one. Two rules govern what goes in them, and after that you're in the land of convention rather than law:
Everything else you'll read about deckbuilding — how much energy to run, how many Supporters, the ratio of Basics to evolutions — is community convention, not rules. Useful convention, often good convention, but nobody official has published it, so treat "run twelve energy" as advice rather than law.
The one structural idea worth having on day one
You draw one card a turn. That is nowhere near enough to find what you need, which is why a Pokémon deck is really two decks in a trench coat: the Pokémon you want to attack with, and the machinery that finds them. If you're building your first deck and it feels short of things to do, the answer is almost always more draw and search Trainers, not more Pokémon.
What to buy
Buy a deck, not packs.
Booster packs are the worst way to start playing and the best way to start collecting, and the two get confused constantly. If your goal is to play a game this week, buy something with a finished deck inside it.
| Product | What's in it | Worth knowing |
|---|---|---|
| Pokémon TCG Battle Academy 2024 Released June 2024 |
Three ready-to-play 60-card decks, a two-player board, beginner guides plus the Advanced Rulebook, counters and a coin. The single best teaching product in the line. | It's from 2024, and cards from that era have rotated out of Standard. Perfect for learning at your kitchen table, not legal to take to a sanctioned event. |
| League Battle Decks Most recent: Mega Lucario ex, May 2026 |
One competitive-leaning 60-card deck, dice, condition markers, a strategy sheet and a code for the digital game. | Current cards, so it's event-legal, and it's the cheapest route to a deck you can actually take to a League. |
| Trainer's Toolkit 2025 Released October 2025 |
The Trainer cards that go in almost every deck, plus sleeves, dice and a deck-building guide. | Not a deck. Buy this second, when you've decided you want to build rather than borrow. |
| Pokémon TCG Live Free, official |
The official free digital version of this exact game, on phone, tablet and desktop, with tutorials and practice decks. | The fastest way to learn, because it enforces the rules for you. Play a dozen games here before you spend anything. |
The recommendation everyone still gives, and the catch nobody mentions
Battle Academy is on every "how to start" list, and it deserves to be — nothing else teaches as clearly. But the newest one is 2024, and those decks are built from cards that no longer pass a deck check. Learn from it. Don't turn up to a League Challenge with it and expect to enter.
Prices move and product lines change; this is a description of what exists, not shopping advice. There's no affiliate link on this page and there never will be.
Legality
The letter in the corner, not the set symbol.
Organised play mostly uses the Standard format, and what makes a card Standard-legal is the small regulation mark printed in the bottom-left corner of the card. Not the set. Not the year. The letter.
New sets become tournament-legal roughly two weeks after release, which is why the set on the shelf isn't always the set in the tournament. The 2026 sets, all part of the Mega Evolution series, were Ascended Heroes (January), Perfect Order (March), Chaos Rising (May) and Pitch Black (July).
Format rules and regulation marks: Play! Pokémon — Rules & Formats. The next rotation has not been announced; see chapter fifteen.
From Pocket
If you learned on Pokémon TCG Pocket, unlearn six things.
Pokémon TCG Pocket is a different game that shares a name and an art style. It's a fine game. It is not a tutorial for this one, and arriving from it with its habits intact is now one of the most common ways to be confused at a table.
| In Pocket | In the physical card game |
|---|---|
| 20-card decks | 60-card decks. Roughly three times the deck, and a completely different consistency problem. |
| A 3-Pokémon Bench | Five Bench slots. More room, and more that can be attacked by cards that reach past the Active. |
| Race to 3 points | Six Prize cards, taken 1, 2 or 3 at a time depending on what you knocked out. |
| An Energy Zone that fills itself | Energy cards you have to draw and attach, one per turn. This is the single biggest difference and it changes everything about deckbuilding. |
| Weakness adds +20 | Weakness multiplies by 2 on current cards. On a 180-damage attack that's a 160-point difference in the same situation. |
| No Resistance | Resistance exists and subtracts, on the cards that have it. |
Confusion also behaves differently between the two games. If a rule you're sure about came from Pocket, check it before you argue about it.
Real events
Playing with people who aren't in your house.
Organised play runs through Play! Pokémon, and the ladder is gentler than it looks from outside. You need a free Player ID and a local store; everything else is optional.
Players are split into three age divisions by birth year, which roll over each July with the new season — so check the current cut-offs on the official page rather than trusting any guide, including this one.
Find a store, a League or a Prerelease near you with the official Pokémon Event Locator. What each event type is, in Play! Pokémon's own words: Local Pokémon TCG Tournaments. Getting a Player ID: Getting Started.
Honesty
What this guide doesn't do, and what isn't known.
Every guide on this site ships one of these. Here's where the ground is soft.
- Two rules here come from Bulbapedia, not an official page. The exact damage from Burned and Poisoned, the ×2 / −30 values for Weakness and Resistance, and the first player's no-attack / no-Supporter restrictions are all correct as far as I can establish — but The Pokémon Company's own site blocks automated access, and the official rulebook I could reach states where those modifiers apply without stating their size. If you find any of it contradicted by a printed rulebook in a box you own, the box wins, and I'd like to know.
- Weakness and Resistance values are printed per card. There is no chart. Cards from Diamond & Pearl through Sword & Shield carry different values from current ones.
- The next Standard rotation has not been announced. Anything telling you a date for it is guessing.
- Energy counts and deck ratios are convention. No official guidance exists. This guide won't invent any.
- Age division cut-offs move every July. Check the official page.
- No tier lists, no card evaluations, no prices. They rot faster than anything else and this guide is not maintained weekly.
- This is the physical card game. Pokémon TCG Live follows the same rules; Pokémon TCG Pocket does not.
Written against the game as it stood in August 2026, after the April 2026 rotation and the release of Pitch Black. If something here has aged badly, tell me and I'll fix it.
Now go lose a few games.
Every rule on this page takes about ten minutes to internalise and about ten games to stop thinking about. Play them on Pokémon TCG Live, where the software won't let you make an illegal play, and then take the ones you understand to a table.
Pokémon and all related names are trademarks of Nintendo, Creatures Inc. and GAME FREAK inc. This guide is an independent, unofficial work and is not affiliated with, endorsed by, sponsored by or approved by any of them. It links to official material rather than reproducing it.